Homeward Bound

Well. My friends. This has been an indescribable 7 months and 19 days. Two weeks ago Monday I moved out of "my" home in Beykoz and moved to a friends apartment in Taksim where I lived out of a suitcase for over a week. One week later I received the devastating news that I job I have been expecting to being in Italy was not available. So I looked into making a quick Visa run and finding some temporary post in the City at least until Christmas. But as of July 14th Turkey past a law prohibiting the renewal of Multiple Entry Tourist Visas. Now expats such as myself must leave the country for 90 days before we can get another Visa. That means 90 days in 90 days out (I'll be interested to see how this effects the educational system of the Country as most English Teachers seem to me to be Visa Runners such as myself). Faced with unemployment and a rapidly expiring Visa. I made the only practical decision I had left to me, bought a plane ticket and returned home to America.

On to my next big adventure?

While I will keep this blog open and suspect that from time to time I will read or remember something that I may post here--from now on I will be returning to my US blog. If you have enjoyed my anecdotes or incites please join me there and be apart of my search to discover the deeply American soul it too moving to the Great Portal of the East to discover I had.


http://vadamorse.blogspot.com/

Görüşürüz, Arkadaşlarim

Extra-National Adventures: Croatia and Bulgaria

I get a small knot in the pit of my stomach every night as I vainly try to fall asleep. On the list of worrisome subjects keeping me from rest is the fact that I have been so inattentive to my blog--and yet have so much to share. Impressions and memories that are already starting to fade and that if I dont record them forever will be a great waste.

I have taken several small trips since I came to Turkey--the first was my Visa run to Cyprus which if you are familiar with this blog i have already posted. In June I tool a trip to Croatia (Hirvatistan for you Turks) with a fellow AuPair. My friend had heard somewhere that Croatia is cheap, has great beaches and is considered one of the few "undiscovered" tourist destinations left in Europe. It was "the" travel destination of 2006 for Americans according to Lonely Planet (I suggest reading Jon Bowermasters article about his trip along the Croatian coast via sea kayak. can be found http://www.adriaticsunshine.com/nationalgeographic.htm)

These are some pictures of my own Croatian Adventure (care of my travel companion, Thanks L. you were great!) Both in the capital Zagreb and on the coast in Dubrovnik

 Beach view of Dubrovnik Castle

 A small bay on the Island of Lokum

 Re: Lokum

 Oh, you know,  just splashing around with Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russel on the Isle of Lokum (look close)

 Sitting outside Dubrovnik Castle. Last evening in Hrvatska

Although our tickets turned out to be a shameful $500!! The beauty and dirt cheap prices in Croatia made this a worthwhile and once in a lifetime experience. Croatia is beautiful, the people are inviting and the cities are so CLEAN.

In July I again found myself with some time off while the family went to Northern Italy. With a far smaller budget and little motivation i impetuously bourded a night bus from Istanbul to Sofia, Bulgaria. At 55Lira one way It was certainly the best value for your money. Spent 2 days exploring Sofia (More then enough time in such a truely boring city) and 2 days in the mountains near Rila. Myself and 2 other backpackers got stranded overnight and ended up taking a room in a Monestary--and adventure in itself!

Me outside....some building

Hostel Mostel (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Hostel-Mostel/Sofia/3725)

Some Building....

St. Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, 2nd largest church in the world...I'm not sure which is #1 though...

In the Mountains near Rila

You'd be looking rough too if you had just spent the night being flogged for your sins by giant, Bulgarian Monks!

4 days in Sofia, Bulgaria is more then any one person needs to experience. But the country and mountains surrounding the admittedly ugly, post Soviet Block cities of Bulgaria are lush, green, and exactly the escape this forest-deprived girl from Great North woods needed.

Boat Trip--Mediterreanean Sea and the Ege Coast

Me and Selin, Day 1

The Beautiful coast off Bodrum

The cove where we anchored for the first 2 nights

Selin and Me: Straw hat Divas

Seconds later I was nursing a sore nose from the bucket tied to the end of that rope...

Ismail Kaptan, and his assistant, Arcan

The perfect end to the perfect post.

Doctors doctors Doctors...

She had the perfect teeth that only a cosmetic orthodontist's daughter can ever have. I was in the classiest and most tastefully--kind of--dentists office I've ever seen in my life. I was trying to distract myself from the truly traumatizing before and after photos of Turkish movie stars and commoners with the oil paintings on the wall which were truly fabulous--and were all actually his own work. The tasteful African artifacts, fossils, antiquated Greek Bust and collection of Meerschaum Pipes add to the ambiance of education and lovely personality.

There was only a couple flies in the ointment...

1. Being that there didn't appear to be any Diplomas or Certificates of Continuing Education dating after 1991
2. The Dental Sterilization Machine was on a counter in the Kitchen right next to a sink full of dirty dishes.

*     *     *

That evening, I sat in an embarrassingly squeaky overstuffed leather chair in the reception area of an Orthopedists waiting while my girls and their mother consulted with the bone specialist about some foot...back....bone problems they had--problems invisible to me (someone who has been seeing these childrens nude bodies everyday for 5 months).
    The older girl came out and informed me that she was going to start wearing a back brace at home. But not because she has spinal problems, or chronic pain. She is going to wear what sounds entirely Medieval to me something that will train her to sit with better posture (i don't know why they don't just use scarves to tie her to a chair like they did during the Victorian era.

Rainy Days = Jack Johnson Kind of Days

Loved Ones,

      You probably haven't heard a peep....but in case the Istanbul weather has happened to make any American headlines: I am fine.
     Its been raining here for days but I was surprised yesterday when part way through the afternoon the girls were delivered home by the school bus and that school was also canceled for today. Apparently there were fears the the city would flood which i thought foolish and paranoid.
      I was wrong. Watching the news tonight it is obvious that parts---some of them SURPRISINGLY close to me flooded this afternoon. I think a few people even died. But me and mine have been untouched by the weather other then the mild irritation that is experienced by those trapped inside by inclement weather when they would rather be out of doors. My only real fear now, petty as it is, is that the weather may persist and the girls may be kept home from school again tomorrow!

                              Love,
                                            Me

P.S. Its a Jack Johnson kind of day <3 

Topkapi and Israelis

I went to Topkapi Palace with a fellow AuPair and American, Kristen at the end of April and was surprisingly unimpressed. For the size and beauty of the place, it was amazingly lacking in Historical Interest....But it does have the world largest diamond on display...guess that's something it has going for it....Also on display is the the actual Staff of Moses (looked surprisingly like plastic to me) the arm, heart, and Head of John the Beloved...and at least 6 of the Prophet Muhammad's beards. I dont mean to be a critic but...really?

 

 

But in the End, it was the height of Tulip Season, and a beautiful day with a Beautiful Friend

Balik Kofte

About 1 week ago we were eating fish (of which I am not a fan). As I complained to the 11yr old she asked me: "but have you ever had Balik kofte?" Fish meatballs?!?!? Seeing my face of disgust at even the thought of fish being smashed into an attempted edible spheres, she told me to just wait, its SOOO good.

Tuesday of this week the girls and I get home late and sit down to the customary Tuesday dinner of patates kofte, or french fries and meatballs. One bite in and I realize this is the best kofte I've had yet. My somewhat talented palette begins to distinguish the red pepper and other spices used to flavor these meatballs, giving them a just slightly spicy and red tinge. The 11yr old then then turns to me and says: "This is Balik Kofte.See, isnt it good?!" Disbeleiving, I turn to the older maid who nods her confirmation. Despite all my best salivatory, optic, and olfactory senses I am forced to believe her and gladly heap my plate with seconds--its fish afterall, that means its healthy!...

This morning at breakfast, I happen to mention to the live in maid that we had fish kofte for dinner this week and I loved it. With only the slightest of smiles she tells me: "No fish kofte. Sığır" (beef) Apparently when they were little girls and they refused to eat beef, the maids would tell the older girl who loves fish that it was fish, not beef. And tell the younger girl who loves chicken that it was chicken, not beef. "Before, no kofte, wahh wahh. Ok, fish, chicken. Very very love. Four year, no problem." They have kept this secret pact and served ground beef to the children for 4 years with completely straight faces.

And that my friends, is why Ayse is my official Quick Thinker of the Week, and my personal hero.

My Country 'Tis of Thee

So....I was SUPPOSED to be starting a new job next week....but I  renegotiated some terms with my current family and will be staying with them for the summer. I am very happy as I am very attached--especially to the older girl.

I have become surprisingly homesick for Americana. Barbeques and Country Music. Baseball and TV that is entirely in English....American men. Memorial Day came and went as little more then a blurp on my homesick radar. I fear that July 4th will be a surprisingly difficult day for me.










I have been a bit lax with my blog and I apologize. I have been fortunate enough to connect with other nannies--several of which were right here inside my complex the whole time! I am planning a trip to Croatia and Montenegro next with with one of the girls...so hopefully I will have an adventure to share with you all sometime late next week.


These are some images of places I pass often on my days in "Europe"...

The Ortakoy Mosque. Beautiful quaint but active area of the city.

And the walk between Ortakoy and Besiktas where one passes Galata Sarayi Univeristy, Yildiz Park, and Dolmabache Palace...

EXTRA Extra, read all about it!

News update, streaming ticker style:

1. FINALLY FOUND BEYKOZ (I thought that I was living in Beykoz, but I was wrong. The real Beykoz if gorgeous and quaint and by the sea) last week when I accidentally took the Mecidiyekoy bus in the wrong direction and followed the coast of the Bosporus north away from the Bridge. Reaction: BEAUTIFUL!

2. WHEN IT RAINS IT POURS - after making a joke about taking out a personal add in the local paper to find other nannies in the area (as my social circle is nonexistent in Asia), I decided it wasn't such a joke after all and actually put a want ad on the forum of one of the expat websites I am networked in (http://www.expat-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=31825). I have since been discovered by a nanny HERE in my very complex who has an entire group of Nanny friends here in the neighborhood. We all have a date to lie around the pool across from my house tomorrow. And I actually did get one hit on my post on the website from a South African girl who just got here, and will hopefully meet her one afternoon next week.

3. 3 MONTHS IS THE CONFIDENCE AND INDEPENDENCE THRESHOLD - for some reason, as of last week, all reservations are lifted about travelling alone and exploring here. I suddenly feel that I know enough of the city and language to move rather comfortable all by myself. Quel relief!

4. I'M THE NANNINATOR! - My long weeks of confusion and pussy footing around the family, children, maids, and drivers is over. I am now fully stepping into my role of teacher and ADULT with the girls. I AM in charge. I WILL have respect. And NO, you cannot have baklava for dinner!

Bayramınız Kutlu Olsun!

Last Saturday was the Turkish workers holiday known as Labour and Solidarity Day

Here are some facts I got from a website called TimeAndDate.com:

"Labor and Solidarity Day in Turkey is an occasion for some people to demand better conditions for skilled laborers and union workers..Labor and Solidarity Day, which falls on May 1 each year, is one of the most controversial holidays in Turkey.
     Some people in Turkey participate in demonstrations on Labor and Solidarity Day. They may demand better conditions for skilled laborers and union workers, or protest the government's policies. If the demonstrators gather in unsanctioned places, the police may try to disperse the crowd.
People who do not participate in political demonstrations try to avoid public gatherings on May 1 because demonstrations sometimes end in violence. Many people use the day off to have a picnic and spend time with friends and relatives.
     Labor and Solidarity Day, observed on May 1, is an official holiday in Turkey. Administration buildings, schools and post offices are usually closed on this day. However, many businesses remain open. Public transport routes may vary in the event of street protests. Visitors should consider avoiding the demonstrations, as they may end up in violence.

May 1 became an official holiday, called “Workers' Day” (İşçi Bayramı), in Turkey in 1923. The event was marked by mass protests and occasional violence. This led the Turkish authorities to ban the participation in the May 1 demonstrations in 1924. The protests continued and the government banned the holiday in 1925. May 1 returned as the “Spring and Flowers Day” (Bahar ve Çiçek Bayramı) in 1935. It was a peaceful day until 1976, when workers organized their first May 1 demonstration in many years. Even bigger demonstrations followed in 1977, and someone opened fire in the 500,000-strong crowd in the Taksim Square in Istanbul. Thirty-four people died in the resulting stampede and more than 100 people were injured.

The Turkish authorities have since banned the May 1 demonstrations at the Taksim Square. In 1981, the government banned the holiday for the second time. May 1 returned as an official holiday under the name of “Labor and Solidarity Day” in 2009

*    *    *
8:15am Saturday morning Brittany and I left her apartment on Babil Sokak off and walked out of the alley onto the side walk to find a deserted Cumhurriyet Cd. in Taksim. We had been warned that today was a Bayram holiday and the metro might be closed, but still this was almost eerie. There was nothing. No buses. No delivery trucks. No cabs zipping and swerving around each other. There wasn't even anyone walking the random dog. The only people who were out were the people in business suits obviously on their way to the office, and police officers. Tons of Police officers.
     We approached the first officers we encountered, and luckily between the 5 of them there was enough English to tell us what we wanted to know: There was no Metro in Taksim that day. So Brittany had a 25minute walk in one direction to catch a taksi to Sultanahmet, and I had a 4km stroll all the way to the bustop at Mecidiyekoy: aka along the entire parade route of the Labor and Solidarity Day demonstrations. (good thing that at the time I was only mildly aware of the torrid and violent past of the holiday) Luckily it was early enough in the day, that demonstrators were just beginning to collect and organize themselves into the various parties holding flags or wearing colors that represent the party or union for which they were advocating. Aside from the militaristic music being played everywhere, the empassioned chants through megaphones and the hundreds of police in riot gear it was a safe enough if crowded walk as I pushed and wove my way upstream to Mecidiyekoy. It took me just under an hour to walk the 4km, I got to my bus with very little trouble, and aside from a sore knee, arrived safely home in Beykoz 4 whole minutes before my 10am "curfew"

 (These photos are all off past May 1 "celebrations" in and around the Taksim area--good thing I didn't see these till later)


                                                  Bayramınız Kutlu Olsun Everyone!
    

Questions: The Best/Worst Part of My Job

Last night at the dinner table....

Ayse: "wah wah wah wah wah wah (Turkish words I don't understand)...wah wah lesbian (Turkish word I do understand) wah wah wah..."

Me: (holding my sides as I belly laugh)

Yasemin (8): "Wada, what does lesbian mean?"

Me: (without missing a beat) "A girl who has a girlfriend"

Selin (11): "What do you call a boy with a boyfriend?"

Me: "Gay"

Selin: "Turkce ne demek?" (how do you say it in Turkish?)

Me: "Ayni" (the same)

Girne (Kyrenia) Cyprus

I went to the Northern coast of Cyprus on my very first Visa run last week. For those of you who don't know (people such as me only one week ago) Cyprus or kibris as it is called in Turkey is a small island nation off the southern coast of Turkey and western coast of Syria. The island has strong Greek and Turkish ties and is just one of the many issues that stands between those two countries. In 1974 the Turkish army invaded Cyprus claiming the northern third of the island as exclusive territory for the Turkish Cypriot minority on the island. Cyprus is divided into Turkish Northern Cyprus and Greek southern Cyprus to this day.

*     *     *
Having the fanciest solo dinner I've ever eaten to date...between courses right now so I decided it's time to start today's journal...

 An American --> eating Chinese --> speaking Turkish--> in a formerly Greek country --> off the coast of Arabia and Isreal 

     I decided I would just play it cool and see how it went...fail. I feel VERY uncomfortable, unfortunately my strange, paranoid need to appear cool, collected, and dignified demands that I pretend that I don't really want to throw my money on the elegant table cloth and run by staying even LONGER and drinking at least 3/4 a pot of what looks and tastes like hot water (but they tell me is Chinese tea) and only then make my graceful exit. 
    This week was made by a myriad of strange women and foreign men. The 1st was the kind lady with halitosis who sat next to me on the plane...

Day 1
 I landed in Ercan at 9:00am Tuesday morning. (Flight from Istanbul to Ercan lasts about 1:15min) Ercan is a VERY small airport and at that time, on that day, at this time of the year, the arrival terminal was pretty barren...My anxiety spiked as I realized I no plans, no knowledge and nowhere to go for 3 days. This was another great first. My first time going to a country with NO contacts. At least when I came to Turkey I was relatively sure there would be a driver at the airport to pick me up and take me to my new home. I had only gotten my plane ticket to come to Turkey about a day and a half before. Aside from my employer telling me that Girne was the city I should go to...and my own harried googling of cheap hostels in Girne moments before I left for the airport at dawn; I knew nothing. The wonderful Turkish woman with bad breath who (has lived in London for the last 26yrs) sitting next to me on the plane offered me a place to stay with her family...It was tempting but deciding I need to be buck up and be independent I regretfully declined...

The 2nd woman to make my Cyprus trip was the Turkish Japanese Teacher....

     The otobus from the airport to Girne, making a short stop in the town of Lefkosa, costs only 10 lira and is very nice (its a tour type bus with plenty of room for luggage, takes about 1hr). On the bus I sat next to a Japanese woman who has lived in Istanbul for 12 years as a language teacher. I speak very little Turkish and she spoke even less English...but with Tinglish and simple hand motions we were able to communicate very well. When we got off the bus at the city center of Kyrenia (Girne Merkezi) Kamiko took me under her belt and we wandered the streets, ancient cobbles, and dazzling seashore of Girne for 2 whole hours before we finally found an internet cafe so I could look up the address of a hostel. From there we parted ways and I was on my own once again...
   
The Final woman to make my holiday in Cyprus was my "roommate" in the Hostel Le Thu or "Lucy"...

     I managed to make my way to the only youth hostel I could find online (although I later learned that there were several others in the area) called "Cyprus Dorms". The front of the 750yr old three story brick building faces the Old Harbor, the most picturesque and charming quarter of Girne but is accessed through 2 doors on a winding little alley. Cyprus Dorms are quite spartan, but for the location, and only 8euros (16YTL) a night, I am not complaining! Inside the hostel I encountered a menagerie of people...from the Bangladesh expat who runs the place...to a 55yr old Canadian man looking to settle in Cyprus...the American Jew and Turkish Muslim couple who stayed up stairs and my "roommate" a 21yr old Vietnamese girl who is attending Girne American University...we were certainly a unique bunch. But everyone was incredible helpful and friendly. I felt at home and safe in Cyprus Dorms. I can't recommend it enough for that alone. (http://www.cyprusdorms.com/index.html)
     I took a 15 minute otobus ride and managed to make my way to a free beach where I sun bathed for 2 hrs and even got into the Akdeniz (Mediterreanean Sea) for the first time!

Day 2

     The 2nd day of my "Kibris Tatil" (Cyprus Holiday) 21yr old Vietnamese Lucy, 55yr old Canadian Fred, and 22yr old American yours truly toured Kyrenia Castle. My first real castle!!!!!

Which brings me to now...the evening of Day 2...having dinner at "The Dragon" the Chinese restaurant where I tracked down Lucy, who is working. Man 3/4 a pot of tea sure seems like a lot when you are drinking it from a tiny cup.... 

Later that night I went out with Lucy, and 3 of her coworkers from the Chinese Restaurant. Night Clubs in Girne not impressive on a Wednesday night. But just being with Lucy was fun.

*     *     *
Day 3
    "Excuse me!" I follow him up the slope, jogging to catch up "Excuse me, hey!" he turns "Are you looking for Cyprus Dorms? Come on follow me, I'll show you the way--its kinda hard to find. That's where I am staying!"
      His name was Ahmed, and he is German. I know I know. We spend the day together, first on the top deck of a tour boat we got a bargain on (where I got roasted!) and talked. Then we had a late lunch of Adana Kebab (my favorite--food from the Adana region of Turkey is always deliciously spicy!) and talked and laughed. Being with Ahmed is wonderfully refreshing. He has the Western perspective of a German and quite a unique sense of humor. His English is wonderful, and he is the first guy I have met since I moved here who isn't in awe of my Americaness and falling in love with me (something that gets old fast, let me tell you).
     Ahmed is about 3months into a 9month Middle Eastern/Eastern European backpacking trip. He is an ultimate backpacker. He has lost the exact count but estimates that he has been to 50+ countries already--most recently Northern Iraq. But on this particular day I was the guide. My 2 days experience in the town and grasp of Turkish leading me to lead him around, teach him a few survival phrases, and even interpret the menu for him. Love it. His next stop will be Istanbul for five days next week. We exchanged contact info and plan to meet again when he arrives.

     I walk Lucy to work as we eat popsciles and turn heads: the two pretty Vietnamese and American girls. Tearful hugs goodbye. Only 2 days aquantance and already best friends. Then it was time. My bus was leaving in 20 minutes back for the airport in Ercan. Daniel and Dilek stop me outside the Dorms for a few pictures, and hugs. Ahmed comes along--saying he wants to make sure I leave! At the bus stop, waiting to board, Fred shows up to bid me farewell. I could cry. less then 3 days and I feel like I am leaving real friends.

Did I do much site seeing? No
Did I waste most my time there? Yes
Was I a celeb? Totally
Did I love it? Yes
Will I go back? I sure hope so!

7 QUILOS

DUE TO A RECENT FEEDING FRENZY FROM PEOPLE WHO CLEARLY DON'T KNOW ME AND HAVE NEVER READ MY BLOG BEFORE...
    This blog is for MY friends. MY family, and foreigners looking to visit/move to Turkey. This post especially is written for the benefit of people who have never been here before and considering moving. If you are Turkish why would you waste your time reading a post like this? That's like a Language Professor checking out a book from the library that teaches nothing but the alphabet. But okay...




 I received a message from another blogger who has complied a list of 7 questions he is often asked by prospective expats to Turkey. He is asking other expats for their own experiences to see how they compared to his. After responding to his post, I decided to post my answers here as well, for you my loyal few (VERY few) readers. If you would like more details or have any questions of your own, feel free to ask....

*     *     *

"AS OF LAST WEEK, I HAVE BEEN HERE FOR 2 MONTHS. So my impressions are VERY fresh and are surely subject to change in the near future...

1. THINGS I LIKE ABOUT LIVING HERE: the food, cheap shopping, the lira! Turkish hospitality, public transportation, Kahvalti, ekmek, kaymak, learning Turkish, Dancing dancing dancing. The open and warm affection expressed between friends and family--I am in awe of how many kisses and pinched cheeks I witness/receive on a daily basis!

2. THINGS I AM STRUGGLING TO ADJUST TO: Paying to drink WARM water, feeling rude for NOT wanting that 6th cup of tea, lack of independence, Turkish hypochondriasis aka the unspoken agreement of some Turkish people to completely ignore science and cling to medical superstition. Turkish men in public places, terrible television

3. ONE EXPERIENCE THAT HAS CHANGED MY IMPRESSION OF TURKEY: I wish I could say it was a good experience. But over the last 2 weeks I have begun being followed by men anytime I try to walk anywhere by myself when I am in Taksim--even in broad daylight. There is nothing I can wear, no dirty face I can make, or rude comment I can say to make them go away. I have lived on my own for several years now and walked some dark streets in some big cities, but I have never been afraid to be alone in my life. Now I am afraid and I hate it. Maybe its wrong of me, but I am truly coming to hate Turkish Men.

4. ADVICE FOR PROSPECTIVE EXPATS: Stock up on good gum. Forget anything you THINK you know about yourself...the Turks will tell you how things REALLY are. (and I am not saying that is UNIQUE to Turkish culture, that is something that any tightly knit group has a tenancy to do--its a Social Psychological principal aka I know what I am talking about, leave it alone.)

5. THINGS I DIDN'T EXPECT ABOUT TURKEY: I didn't expect Istanbul to be so hilly! And the traffic--don't get me started! And many of the people here in Istanbul seem to know even less about Islam then I do. I guess western media gave me the impression that all "Muslims" are completely devoted to Muhammad and the 5 pillars But like any religion (be it Christianity, Judaism, or Buddhism) there are devout and active practitioners but there are also large numbers of believers in name only.

6. THINGS I'D LIKE TO CHANGE ABOUT TURKEY: Cobblestone sidewalks are a slippery turned-ankle-waiting-to-happen, I hope that the ultraconservative party that is in power finds a way to erase the damage that it has done to the relationship between POLITICALLY conservative Turks and what I like to call the Ataturkist (aka Nationalist) Turks. Its sad that 2 groups who have lived peacefully side by side for almost 100 years are now being divided by policy and litigation.

7. THINGS ABOUT TURKEY I WISH AMERICA WOULD ADOPT Bread, cheese, cream...and Kahvalti. I will never eat another Cheerio ever again! Oh an BTW...orange juice, fresh squeezed...Step it up America, or I am never coming home, I will never drink from concentrate ever again!"

--Thanks Nomad!

DENIZ TAKSI and tonight's winning ticket holder is....

It occurs to me that some of you, my dear readers may be under the impression that I am not happy, or that my employers are in fact jailers...or that the Turkish culture is utterly ridiculous. I find it imperitive at this point, just after my 2 monthiversary of the big move to clarify a few points...

      First off...as far as jobs go I really hit the AuPair lottery. By some twist of fate I managed to connect with the most incredible family. The girls are funny, active, absolutely beautiful, and as they slowly warm up to me more and more of a comfort as I am so far away from my own dear younger siblings. How many people get paid to play games like Go Fish and Sorry? Not many, I suspect!
     My boss is also an absolute gem. She is one of the most beautiful women I have ever seen in real life...sometimes I feel like I am working for a princess. But she is inquisitive, hard working, somewhat and 100% devoted to her children. PLUS she is one of the few people I have met here who gets and appreciates my humor! I don't feel it too much to say that I am really coming to see Sebnem as my friend.
     The father is openly and gregariously affectionate with all the girls in his life. Seldom have I seen a father who kisses his children or tell them he loves them with such volume and such vehemence, anywhere. In a culture that values men more then women, this is truly unique.
     And for the benefits...I have a nice, VERY private room all to myself. Tucked away all by myself on the third floor I really feel that I have my own separate and sacrosanct area. (The queen sized bed, private balcony and beautiful private bathroom help too!)
     I do work hard often...and while I am doing more cleaning then I had expected too...there is a pride in knowning that I can help and that I am earning my keep, both with the skills I am teaching and the skills I am learning (ironing...ick!)
     So in case any of you, my readers, had gotten the impression that I was unhappy, know that I am profoundly happy here. I am suffering from no more homesickness then I experienced during college (which was comparatively low for how far away I was) Every job, every situation, every life has its highs and its lows. If my blog sometimes comes across as a rant, know that this is a safe place for me where I can complain...and in a way organize my own confused thoughts at times. I am not ashamed of anything I have said or will say in the future in this forum. I aim in all things to follow the truth as closely as perception, imagination, and often comic entertainment allow.

*     *     *


Last month my friend and I took a Deniz Taksi from Kavacik to Ortakoy, its a motorboat you hire to take you from one side of the Bosporus to the other.  It is a great way to get some fresh air and save yourself potentially an hour of travel time in heavy traffic. Its fast, fun, and only costs 5 lira total--so the more friends you bring--the better! Seeing as it costs 3lira a piece to take the otobus across the bridge (then another 1.50+ to take a bus to ortokoy it is by far your best bet money wise!

Fatih Sultan Mehmet Korprusu (the northern of the 2 bridges that span the Bosporus)

 











P.S. I can't believe how much weight I have lost even since this photo was taken a month ago! I look like a diff person in the face especially!

Nanny Diaries and my "Ah ha!" Moment

 "There's a popular belief amongst anthropologists that you must immerse yourself in an unfamiliar world...in order to truly understand your own" --The Nanny Diaries



 I watched the 2007 movie starring Scarlett Johansson called "The Nanny Diaries" late one night last week. It was interesting to watch from my perspective as a current nanny. Johansson's character 'Annie' has just about as nightmarish an experience as I can imagine. Contrasting Annie's situation with my own, I realize yet again that I really hit the AuPair Lottery Jackpot in many ways. I thoroughly enjoy both the children I work with and the parents I work for. (And unlike Johansson's character my family actually calls me by my preffered name and not "Nanny")

*     *     *


I was napping when the girls got home from school one day last week (something I am doing far too much of these days) so Selin came up stairs to find me for her customary afterschool hug. Before climbing into my (huge) bed where I was oh so cozily ensconced she expressed slight anxiety about her clothes being "dirty" from being at school (I confess, if there was any dirt I  couldn't see it) I have long been puzzled by the near germ-a-phobic cleansing rituals and habits here in the home. Selin explained: "Well...to muslims it is very important to always be clean"


Ah ha!

I literally exclaimed "Ah ha!" as so many little pieces fell into place for me. Suddenly I am remembering the Pillars of Islam and the ritualistic cleansing of hands feet and head outside mosques and it all makes sense. Despite the fact that this family and most modern Turks from what I can divine are more cold Muslims then I had expected there are some aspects of the religion that are now deeply ingrained in the culture.

*     *     *
A not-so-clever-or-happy-Ah ha!-moment....

Cumartesi, 20 Mart, 10:45am
     "Brittany? Its me Vada. I'm in Sishane but I dont know where to go next"
     "Sishane?! You were supposed to go to Sisli. Its in the other direction. You need to get back on the Metro  and go towards Levent!"
     Doh!

11:15am
     I am pretty sure we are about the only 2 people in Istanbul listening to our ipods. He is wearing paint splattered blue jeans and...whats this? A black leather vest with rhinestone buttons over a low v-neck black button-up? Dana Dwyer Bradshaw...where is your international cell phone when I need to text you? I am often surprised the the metros in Istanbul are so clean and so quiet. Few people even talk. Its at this point that the fact that this is the third person to sit down across from me and then get off at the very next stop while I seem to be getting no closer to my destination strikes me as odd. I glance up to the stop indicator to make the horrible discovery that I am on my way BACK to Sishane! This train only goes back and forth between two stops. At Taksim I am supposed to get off the M2, walk twenty feet down the line and get on the M1 to continue toward my stop Sisli/Mecedekoy.
     F my life!

11:45am
     Sitting on the 121A, waiting for it to leave the station I pull out my cell phone. "Ayse, ben Vada. I am on otobus. I will be late. yok cimnastik. Uzgunum".

 12:30
     I pay the cab driver 10 lira and climb out of the taxi. Of course the door is locked, and after 2 minutes of polite then not so polite bell ringing I am forced to conclude that no one is home. I sit down on the Holland cover draped patio furnature and drift...

2:45
     "Where were you Vada?"
     "Here?" I mumble, still out of sorts from my nap and my struggle to stay warm while I waited for the family to return. "I'm sorry I was late...I got turned around"

Jellyfish, Octopus, Executives & Heels

     Abandoning my affected air of sophistication I broke down and admitted "no, I do not like the fish" with an apologetic smile and a small laugh at my own finickiness I handed the plate over to Bulent to distribute my fare to the real "adults" at the table. I was sitting in the nicest restaurant I have ever had the pleasure of being a legitimate patron at, eating what I am sure was the most expensive meal of my life, and I just couldnt handle one more bite. Maybe if I hadn't gorged on Little Ceasar's Pizza a mere hour earlier I could have sampled more of the rare delicacies laid out before me. As it stood, all i could think about was how to tactfully excuse myself from the table before my bladder burst.
     "Yasemin, do you have to go to the bathroom?" No. Damn.
But I won't be too hard on myself. I did afterall try both squid and octopus for the first time in the very same meal!

*     *     *

"Vada....Like the British Darth Vada?" The boy asked.

Finally! Never mind that neither George Lucas nor the Star Wars Trilogy are British. In America, the most common response to hearing my name (at least from men) is 'Vada...like Darth Vada! Har har har'. Clever. Good one. Never heard that one before. Here what I get 'Elveda Vada!" (farewell) One night this week the father burst into some song about elveda and Yasemin jumped up from the dinner table to dance accompanied by the mother's clapping, all for me. I loved it

*     *     *
(Rewind)
Freedom sweet sweet freedom! Errm.....actually....please....just halfway??? No? :( But but but...oh alright.
     So I walked from Sebnem's art studio in Beyoglu all the way across Taksim to meet Brittany and Eda all by myself! Stopping to ask "Hilton Hotel nerede?" ever 100 meters. The anxiety was all worth it. I am glad my friends pushed me to walk on my own; it's the only real way to learn the way. Now I have walked, taken taxis, and even taken the METRO all by myself! I think I deserve a cookie...

    I was able to go to Taksim twice this week, once just for the afternoon on Wednesday, I met Eda and Brittany for lunch and some shopping. Thursday I spent all day with my friends and had an interesting adventure. Eda was asked by her friend Barak who is in the tourism business (owns his own hotel and restaurant at 25 and is also some kind of ladies man socialite here in Istanbul--he googled paparzzi pics of himself to prove it)...anyways, back to story. Barak asked Eda to come to his office in Sultanahmet for an "interview" for a translating job.
    So down the fuicula and onto the metro to Sultanahmet we go. Walking past the great obelisks of the hippodrome into the mecca of tourism that is Sultanahmet for said interview.

     That interview really turned into two television channel executives from Star TV one of the biggest broadcasting corporations in Turkey, a police chief, one secretary, Barak, Eda, Brittany and yours truly watching an episode of "48 hrs Mystery" Brittany and me explaining what was going on in the show while Eda translated it into Turkish for the rest of the group. For 3 hours. Alla-h-allah! I think we got the job.

*     *     *

     What was NOT so good an idea was wearing high heels in Taksim.
     Cobblestones, tiles, concrete, stairs, steps, hills, inclines, potholes, gutters, manholes, and grates....Lets just say that Istanbul is not exactly a heel friendly city. (Note to reader: concider carefully before donning those oh so cute pumps for a night out on the town. A nice pair of fashionably LOW HEELED boots may be a much better decision...an thanks to the open air bazaar I now possess just such an item. cherry red leather. only 20 Lira. Allah I love Turkey! Its amazing how a great pair of boots, a sparkly scarf and the perfect jacket can make a girl feel like a million bucks.
    Friends and family would be happy and shocked to know that I am better dressed then I have ever been. Ever.
     To get back to the aforementioned open air bizarre: visitors and newbies to the city need to know about this. The Bazaar (not the Grand Bazaar) is the best place to find anything from cheap sunglasses, to clothing, to home furnishings, to q tips, to nazar boncugu (evil eye) jewelry. The shop keepers also tend to be friendlier and more fair then the keepers of the Grand Bazaar whom raise the price of their items to twice the Turkish rate if you are American.