Last night at the dinner table....
Ayse: "wah wah wah wah wah wah (Turkish words I don't understand)...wah wah lesbian (Turkish word I do understand) wah wah wah..."
Me: (holding my sides as I belly laugh)
Yasemin (8): "Wada, what does lesbian mean?"
Me: (without missing a beat) "A girl who has a girlfriend"
Selin (11): "What do you call a boy with a boyfriend?"
Me: "Gay"
Selin: "Turkce ne demek?" (how do you say it in Turkish?)
Me: "Ayni" (the same)
4.22.2010
Girne (Kyrenia) Cyprus
I went to the Northern coast of Cyprus on my very first Visa run last week. For those of you who don't know (people such as me only one week ago) Cyprus or kibris as it is called in Turkey is a small island nation off the southern coast of Turkey and western coast of Syria. The island has strong Greek and Turkish ties and is just one of the many issues that stands between those two countries. In 1974 the Turkish army invaded Cyprus claiming the northern third of the island as exclusive territory for the Turkish Cypriot minority on the island. Cyprus is divided into Turkish Northern Cyprus and Greek southern Cyprus to this day.
* * *
Having the fanciest solo dinner I've ever eaten to date...between courses right now so I decided it's time to start today's journal...
An American --> eating Chinese --> speaking Turkish--> in a formerly Greek country --> off the coast of Arabia and Isreal
I decided I would just play it cool and see how it went...fail. I feel VERY uncomfortable, unfortunately my strange, paranoid need to appear cool, collected, and dignified demands that I pretend that I don't really want to throw my money on the elegant table cloth and run by staying even LONGER and drinking at least 3/4 a pot of what looks and tastes like hot water (but they tell me is Chinese tea) and only then make my graceful exit.
This week was made by a myriad of strange women and foreign men. The 1st was the kind lady with halitosis who sat next to me on the plane...
Day 1
I landed in Ercan at 9:00am Tuesday morning. (Flight from Istanbul to Ercan lasts about 1:15min) Ercan is a VERY small airport and at that time, on that day, at this time of the year, the arrival terminal was pretty barren...My anxiety spiked as I realized I no plans, no knowledge and nowhere to go for 3 days. This was another great first. My first time going to a country with NO contacts. At least when I came to Turkey I was relatively sure there would be a driver at the airport to pick me up and take me to my new home. I had only gotten my plane ticket to come to Turkey about a day and a half before. Aside from my employer telling me that Girne was the city I should go to...and my own harried googling of cheap hostels in Girne moments before I left for the airport at dawn; I knew nothing. The wonderful Turkish woman with bad breath who (has lived in London for the last 26yrs) sitting next to me on the plane offered me a place to stay with her family...It was tempting but deciding I need to be buck up and be independent I regretfully declined...
The 2nd woman to make my Cyprus trip was the Turkish Japanese Teacher....
The otobus from the airport to Girne, making a short stop in the town of Lefkosa, costs only 10 lira and is very nice (its a tour type bus with plenty of room for luggage, takes about 1hr). On the bus I sat next to a Japanese woman who has lived in Istanbul for 12 years as a language teacher. I speak very little Turkish and she spoke even less English...but with Tinglish and simple hand motions we were able to communicate very well. When we got off the bus at the city center of Kyrenia (Girne Merkezi) Kamiko took me under her belt and we wandered the streets, ancient cobbles, and dazzling seashore of Girne for 2 whole hours before we finally found an internet cafe so I could look up the address of a hostel. From there we parted ways and I was on my own once again...
The Final woman to make my holiday in Cyprus was my "roommate" in the Hostel Le Thu or "Lucy"...
I managed to make my way to the only youth hostel I could find online (although I later learned that there were several others in the area) called "Cyprus Dorms". The front of the 750yr old three story brick building faces the Old Harbor, the most picturesque and charming quarter of Girne but is accessed through 2 doors on a winding little alley. Cyprus Dorms are quite spartan, but for the location, and only 8euros (16YTL) a night, I am not complaining! Inside the hostel I encountered a menagerie of people...from the Bangladesh expat who runs the place...to a 55yr old Canadian man looking to settle in Cyprus...the American Jew and Turkish Muslim couple who stayed up stairs and my "roommate" a 21yr old Vietnamese girl who is attending Girne American University...we were certainly a unique bunch. But everyone was incredible helpful and friendly. I felt at home and safe in Cyprus Dorms. I can't recommend it enough for that alone. (http://www.cyprusdorms.com/index.html)
I took a 15 minute otobus ride and managed to make my way to a free beach where I sun bathed for 2 hrs and even got into the Akdeniz (Mediterreanean Sea) for the first time!
Day 2
The 2nd day of my "Kibris Tatil" (Cyprus Holiday) 21yr old Vietnamese Lucy, 55yr old Canadian Fred, and 22yr old American yours truly toured Kyrenia Castle. My first real castle!!!!!
Which brings me to now...the evening of Day 2...having dinner at "The Dragon" the Chinese restaurant where I tracked down Lucy, who is working. Man 3/4 a pot of tea sure seems like a lot when you are drinking it from a tiny cup....
Later that night I went out with Lucy, and 3 of her coworkers from the Chinese Restaurant. Night Clubs in Girne not impressive on a Wednesday night. But just being with Lucy was fun.
* * *
Day 3
"Excuse me!" I follow him up the slope, jogging to catch up "Excuse me, hey!" he turns "Are you looking for Cyprus Dorms? Come on follow me, I'll show you the way--its kinda hard to find. That's where I am staying!"
His name was Ahmed, and he is German. I know I know. We spend the day together, first on the top deck of a tour boat we got a bargain on (where I got roasted!) and talked. Then we had a late lunch of Adana Kebab (my favorite--food from the Adana region of Turkey is always deliciously spicy!) and talked and laughed. Being with Ahmed is wonderfully refreshing. He has the Western perspective of a German and quite a unique sense of humor. His English is wonderful, and he is the first guy I have met since I moved here who isn't in awe of my Americaness and falling in love with me (something that gets old fast, let me tell you).
Ahmed is about 3months into a 9month Middle Eastern/Eastern European backpacking trip. He is an ultimate backpacker. He has lost the exact count but estimates that he has been to 50+ countries already--most recently Northern Iraq. But on this particular day I was the guide. My 2 days experience in the town and grasp of Turkish leading me to lead him around, teach him a few survival phrases, and even interpret the menu for him. Love it. His next stop will be Istanbul for five days next week. We exchanged contact info and plan to meet again when he arrives.
I walk Lucy to work as we eat popsciles and turn heads: the two pretty Vietnamese and American girls. Tearful hugs goodbye. Only 2 days aquantance and already best friends. Then it was time. My bus was leaving in 20 minutes back for the airport in Ercan. Daniel and Dilek stop me outside the Dorms for a few pictures, and hugs. Ahmed comes along--saying he wants to make sure I leave! At the bus stop, waiting to board, Fred shows up to bid me farewell. I could cry. less then 3 days and I feel like I am leaving real friends.
Did I do much site seeing? No
Did I waste most my time there? Yes
Was I a celeb? Totally
Did I love it? Yes
Will I go back? I sure hope so!
* * *
Having the fanciest solo dinner I've ever eaten to date...between courses right now so I decided it's time to start today's journal...
An American --> eating Chinese --> speaking Turkish--> in a formerly Greek country --> off the coast of Arabia and Isreal
I decided I would just play it cool and see how it went...fail. I feel VERY uncomfortable, unfortunately my strange, paranoid need to appear cool, collected, and dignified demands that I pretend that I don't really want to throw my money on the elegant table cloth and run by staying even LONGER and drinking at least 3/4 a pot of what looks and tastes like hot water (but they tell me is Chinese tea) and only then make my graceful exit.
This week was made by a myriad of strange women and foreign men. The 1st was the kind lady with halitosis who sat next to me on the plane...
Day 1
I landed in Ercan at 9:00am Tuesday morning. (Flight from Istanbul to Ercan lasts about 1:15min) Ercan is a VERY small airport and at that time, on that day, at this time of the year, the arrival terminal was pretty barren...My anxiety spiked as I realized I no plans, no knowledge and nowhere to go for 3 days. This was another great first. My first time going to a country with NO contacts. At least when I came to Turkey I was relatively sure there would be a driver at the airport to pick me up and take me to my new home. I had only gotten my plane ticket to come to Turkey about a day and a half before. Aside from my employer telling me that Girne was the city I should go to...and my own harried googling of cheap hostels in Girne moments before I left for the airport at dawn; I knew nothing. The wonderful Turkish woman with bad breath who (has lived in London for the last 26yrs) sitting next to me on the plane offered me a place to stay with her family...It was tempting but deciding I need to be buck up and be independent I regretfully declined...
The 2nd woman to make my Cyprus trip was the Turkish Japanese Teacher....
The otobus from the airport to Girne, making a short stop in the town of Lefkosa, costs only 10 lira and is very nice (its a tour type bus with plenty of room for luggage, takes about 1hr). On the bus I sat next to a Japanese woman who has lived in Istanbul for 12 years as a language teacher. I speak very little Turkish and she spoke even less English...but with Tinglish and simple hand motions we were able to communicate very well. When we got off the bus at the city center of Kyrenia (Girne Merkezi) Kamiko took me under her belt and we wandered the streets, ancient cobbles, and dazzling seashore of Girne for 2 whole hours before we finally found an internet cafe so I could look up the address of a hostel. From there we parted ways and I was on my own once again...
The Final woman to make my holiday in Cyprus was my "roommate" in the Hostel Le Thu or "Lucy"...
I took a 15 minute otobus ride and managed to make my way to a free beach where I sun bathed for 2 hrs and even got into the Akdeniz (Mediterreanean Sea) for the first time!
Day 2
Later that night I went out with Lucy, and 3 of her coworkers from the Chinese Restaurant. Night Clubs in Girne not impressive on a Wednesday night. But just being with Lucy was fun.
* * *
Day 3
"Excuse me!" I follow him up the slope, jogging to catch up "Excuse me, hey!" he turns "Are you looking for Cyprus Dorms? Come on follow me, I'll show you the way--its kinda hard to find. That's where I am staying!"
His name was Ahmed, and he is German. I know I know. We spend the day together, first on the top deck of a tour boat we got a bargain on (where I got roasted!) and talked. Then we had a late lunch of Adana Kebab (my favorite--food from the Adana region of Turkey is always deliciously spicy!) and talked and laughed. Being with Ahmed is wonderfully refreshing. He has the Western perspective of a German and quite a unique sense of humor. His English is wonderful, and he is the first guy I have met since I moved here who isn't in awe of my Americaness and falling in love with me (something that gets old fast, let me tell you).
Ahmed is about 3months into a 9month Middle Eastern/Eastern European backpacking trip. He is an ultimate backpacker. He has lost the exact count but estimates that he has been to 50+ countries already--most recently Northern Iraq. But on this particular day I was the guide. My 2 days experience in the town and grasp of Turkish leading me to lead him around, teach him a few survival phrases, and even interpret the menu for him. Love it. His next stop will be Istanbul for five days next week. We exchanged contact info and plan to meet again when he arrives.
I walk Lucy to work as we eat popsciles and turn heads: the two pretty Vietnamese and American girls. Tearful hugs goodbye. Only 2 days aquantance and already best friends. Then it was time. My bus was leaving in 20 minutes back for the airport in Ercan. Daniel and Dilek stop me outside the Dorms for a few pictures, and hugs. Ahmed comes along--saying he wants to make sure I leave! At the bus stop, waiting to board, Fred shows up to bid me farewell. I could cry. less then 3 days and I feel like I am leaving real friends.
Did I do much site seeing? No
Did I waste most my time there? Yes
Was I a celeb? Totally
Did I love it? Yes
Will I go back? I sure hope so!
4.08.2010
7 QUILOS
DUE TO A RECENT FEEDING FRENZY FROM PEOPLE WHO CLEARLY DON'T KNOW ME AND HAVE NEVER READ MY BLOG BEFORE...
This blog is for MY friends. MY family, and foreigners looking to visit/move to Turkey. This post especially is written for the benefit of people who have never been here before and considering moving. If you are Turkish why would you waste your time reading a post like this? That's like a Language Professor checking out a book from the library that teaches nothing but the alphabet. But okay...
I received a message from another blogger who has complied a list of 7 questions he is often asked by prospective expats to Turkey. He is asking other expats for their own experiences to see how they compared to his. After responding to his post, I decided to post my answers here as well, for you my loyal few (VERY few) readers. If you would like more details or have any questions of your own, feel free to ask....
* * *
"AS OF LAST WEEK, I HAVE BEEN HERE FOR 2 MONTHS. So my impressions are VERY fresh and are surely subject to change in the near future...
1. THINGS I LIKE ABOUT LIVING HERE: the food, cheap shopping, the lira! Turkish hospitality, public transportation, Kahvalti, ekmek, kaymak, learning Turkish, Dancing dancing dancing. The open and warm affection expressed between friends and family--I am in awe of how many kisses and pinched cheeks I witness/receive on a daily basis!
2. THINGS I AM STRUGGLING TO ADJUST TO: Paying to drink WARM water, feeling rude for NOT wanting that 6th cup of tea, lack of independence, Turkish hypochondriasis aka the unspoken agreement of some Turkish people to completely ignore science and cling to medical superstition. Turkish men in public places, terrible television
3. ONE EXPERIENCE THAT HAS CHANGED MY IMPRESSION OF TURKEY: I wish I could say it was a good experience. But over the last 2 weeks I have begun being followed by men anytime I try to walk anywhere by myself when I am in Taksim--even in broad daylight. There is nothing I can wear, no dirty face I can make, or rude comment I can say to make them go away. I have lived on my own for several years now and walked some dark streets in some big cities, but I have never been afraid to be alone in my life. Now I am afraid and I hate it. Maybe its wrong of me, but I am truly coming to hate Turkish Men.
4. ADVICE FOR PROSPECTIVE EXPATS: Stock up on good gum. Forget anything you THINK you know about yourself...the Turks will tell you how things REALLY are. (and I am not saying that is UNIQUE to Turkish culture, that is something that any tightly knit group has a tenancy to do--its a Social Psychological principal aka I know what I am talking about, leave it alone.)
5. THINGS I DIDN'T EXPECT ABOUT TURKEY: I didn't expect Istanbul to be so hilly! And the traffic--don't get me started! And many of the people here in Istanbul seem to know even less about Islam then I do. I guess western media gave me the impression that all "Muslims" are completely devoted to Muhammad and the 5 pillars But like any religion (be it Christianity, Judaism, or Buddhism) there are devout and active practitioners but there are also large numbers of believers in name only.
6. THINGS I'D LIKE TO CHANGE ABOUT TURKEY: Cobblestone sidewalks are a slippery turned-ankle-waiting-to-happen, I hope that the ultraconservative party that is in power finds a way to erase the damage that it has done to the relationship between POLITICALLY conservative Turks and what I like to call the Ataturkist (aka Nationalist) Turks. Its sad that 2 groups who have lived peacefully side by side for almost 100 years are now being divided by policy and litigation.
7. THINGS ABOUT TURKEY I WISH AMERICA WOULD ADOPT Bread, cheese, cream...and Kahvalti. I will never eat another Cheerio ever again! Oh an BTW...orange juice, fresh squeezed...Step it up America, or I am never coming home, I will never drink from concentrate ever again!"
--Thanks Nomad!
This blog is for MY friends. MY family, and foreigners looking to visit/move to Turkey. This post especially is written for the benefit of people who have never been here before and considering moving. If you are Turkish why would you waste your time reading a post like this? That's like a Language Professor checking out a book from the library that teaches nothing but the alphabet. But okay...
I received a message from another blogger who has complied a list of 7 questions he is often asked by prospective expats to Turkey. He is asking other expats for their own experiences to see how they compared to his. After responding to his post, I decided to post my answers here as well, for you my loyal few (VERY few) readers. If you would like more details or have any questions of your own, feel free to ask....
* * *
"AS OF LAST WEEK, I HAVE BEEN HERE FOR 2 MONTHS. So my impressions are VERY fresh and are surely subject to change in the near future...
1. THINGS I LIKE ABOUT LIVING HERE: the food, cheap shopping, the lira! Turkish hospitality, public transportation, Kahvalti, ekmek, kaymak, learning Turkish, Dancing dancing dancing. The open and warm affection expressed between friends and family--I am in awe of how many kisses and pinched cheeks I witness/receive on a daily basis!
2. THINGS I AM STRUGGLING TO ADJUST TO: Paying to drink WARM water, feeling rude for NOT wanting that 6th cup of tea, lack of independence, Turkish hypochondriasis aka the unspoken agreement of some Turkish people to completely ignore science and cling to medical superstition. Turkish men in public places, terrible television
3. ONE EXPERIENCE THAT HAS CHANGED MY IMPRESSION OF TURKEY: I wish I could say it was a good experience. But over the last 2 weeks I have begun being followed by men anytime I try to walk anywhere by myself when I am in Taksim--even in broad daylight. There is nothing I can wear, no dirty face I can make, or rude comment I can say to make them go away. I have lived on my own for several years now and walked some dark streets in some big cities, but I have never been afraid to be alone in my life. Now I am afraid and I hate it. Maybe its wrong of me, but I am truly coming to hate Turkish Men.
4. ADVICE FOR PROSPECTIVE EXPATS: Stock up on good gum. Forget anything you THINK you know about yourself...the Turks will tell you how things REALLY are. (and I am not saying that is UNIQUE to Turkish culture, that is something that any tightly knit group has a tenancy to do--its a Social Psychological principal aka I know what I am talking about, leave it alone.)
5. THINGS I DIDN'T EXPECT ABOUT TURKEY: I didn't expect Istanbul to be so hilly! And the traffic--don't get me started! And many of the people here in Istanbul seem to know even less about Islam then I do. I guess western media gave me the impression that all "Muslims" are completely devoted to Muhammad and the 5 pillars But like any religion (be it Christianity, Judaism, or Buddhism) there are devout and active practitioners but there are also large numbers of believers in name only.
6. THINGS I'D LIKE TO CHANGE ABOUT TURKEY: Cobblestone sidewalks are a slippery turned-ankle-waiting-to-happen, I hope that the ultraconservative party that is in power finds a way to erase the damage that it has done to the relationship between POLITICALLY conservative Turks and what I like to call the Ataturkist (aka Nationalist) Turks. Its sad that 2 groups who have lived peacefully side by side for almost 100 years are now being divided by policy and litigation.
7. THINGS ABOUT TURKEY I WISH AMERICA WOULD ADOPT Bread, cheese, cream...and Kahvalti. I will never eat another Cheerio ever again! Oh an BTW...orange juice, fresh squeezed...Step it up America, or I am never coming home, I will never drink from concentrate ever again!"
--Thanks Nomad!
4.06.2010
DENIZ TAKSI and tonight's winning ticket holder is....
It occurs to me that some of you, my dear readers may be under the impression that I am not happy, or that my employers are in fact jailers...or that the Turkish culture is utterly ridiculous. I find it imperitive at this point, just after my 2 monthiversary of the big move to clarify a few points...
First off...as far as jobs go I really hit the AuPair lottery. By some twist of fate I managed to connect with the most incredible family. The girls are funny, active, absolutely beautiful, and as they slowly warm up to me more and more of a comfort as I am so far away from my own dear younger siblings. How many people get paid to play games like Go Fish and Sorry? Not many, I suspect!
My boss is also an absolute gem. She is one of the most beautiful women I have ever seen in real life...sometimes I feel like I am working for a princess. But she is inquisitive, hard working, somewhat and 100% devoted to her children. PLUS she is one of the few people I have met here who gets and appreciates my humor! I don't feel it too much to say that I am really coming to see Sebnem as my friend.
The father is openly and gregariously affectionate with all the girls in his life. Seldom have I seen a father who kisses his children or tell them he loves them with such volume and such vehemence, anywhere. In a culture that values men more then women, this is truly unique.
And for the benefits...I have a nice, VERY private room all to myself. Tucked away all by myself on the third floor I really feel that I have my own separate and sacrosanct area. (The queen sized bed, private balcony and beautiful private bathroom help too!)
I do work hard often...and while I am doing more cleaning then I had expected too...there is a pride in knowning that I can help and that I am earning my keep, both with the skills I am teaching and the skills I am learning (ironing...ick!)
So in case any of you, my readers, had gotten the impression that I was unhappy, know that I am profoundly happy here. I am suffering from no more homesickness then I experienced during college (which was comparatively low for how far away I was) Every job, every situation, every life has its highs and its lows. If my blog sometimes comes across as a rant, know that this is a safe place for me where I can complain...and in a way organize my own confused thoughts at times. I am not ashamed of anything I have said or will say in the future in this forum. I aim in all things to follow the truth as closely as perception, imagination, and often comic entertainment allow.
* * *
Last month my friend and I took a Deniz Taksi from Kavacik to Ortakoy, its a motorboat you hire to take you from one side of the Bosporus to the other. It is a great way to get some fresh air and save yourself potentially an hour of travel time in heavy traffic. Its fast, fun, and only costs 5 lira total--so the more friends you bring--the better! Seeing as it costs 3lira a piece to take the otobus across the bridge (then another 1.50+ to take a bus to ortokoy it is by far your best bet money wise!
Fatih Sultan Mehmet Korprusu (the northern of the 2 bridges that span the Bosporus)
P.S. I can't believe how much weight I have lost even since this photo was taken a month ago! I look like a diff person in the face especially!
First off...as far as jobs go I really hit the AuPair lottery. By some twist of fate I managed to connect with the most incredible family. The girls are funny, active, absolutely beautiful, and as they slowly warm up to me more and more of a comfort as I am so far away from my own dear younger siblings. How many people get paid to play games like Go Fish and Sorry? Not many, I suspect!
My boss is also an absolute gem. She is one of the most beautiful women I have ever seen in real life...sometimes I feel like I am working for a princess. But she is inquisitive, hard working, somewhat and 100% devoted to her children. PLUS she is one of the few people I have met here who gets and appreciates my humor! I don't feel it too much to say that I am really coming to see Sebnem as my friend.
The father is openly and gregariously affectionate with all the girls in his life. Seldom have I seen a father who kisses his children or tell them he loves them with such volume and such vehemence, anywhere. In a culture that values men more then women, this is truly unique.
And for the benefits...I have a nice, VERY private room all to myself. Tucked away all by myself on the third floor I really feel that I have my own separate and sacrosanct area. (The queen sized bed, private balcony and beautiful private bathroom help too!)
I do work hard often...and while I am doing more cleaning then I had expected too...there is a pride in knowning that I can help and that I am earning my keep, both with the skills I am teaching and the skills I am learning (ironing...ick!)
So in case any of you, my readers, had gotten the impression that I was unhappy, know that I am profoundly happy here. I am suffering from no more homesickness then I experienced during college (which was comparatively low for how far away I was) Every job, every situation, every life has its highs and its lows. If my blog sometimes comes across as a rant, know that this is a safe place for me where I can complain...and in a way organize my own confused thoughts at times. I am not ashamed of anything I have said or will say in the future in this forum. I aim in all things to follow the truth as closely as perception, imagination, and often comic entertainment allow.
* * *
Last month my friend and I took a Deniz Taksi from Kavacik to Ortakoy, its a motorboat you hire to take you from one side of the Bosporus to the other. It is a great way to get some fresh air and save yourself potentially an hour of travel time in heavy traffic. Its fast, fun, and only costs 5 lira total--so the more friends you bring--the better! Seeing as it costs 3lira a piece to take the otobus across the bridge (then another 1.50+ to take a bus to ortokoy it is by far your best bet money wise!
Fatih Sultan Mehmet Korprusu (the northern of the 2 bridges that span the Bosporus)
P.S. I can't believe how much weight I have lost even since this photo was taken a month ago! I look like a diff person in the face especially!
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