Extra-National Adventures: Croatia and Bulgaria

I get a small knot in the pit of my stomach every night as I vainly try to fall asleep. On the list of worrisome subjects keeping me from rest is the fact that I have been so inattentive to my blog--and yet have so much to share. Impressions and memories that are already starting to fade and that if I dont record them forever will be a great waste.

I have taken several small trips since I came to Turkey--the first was my Visa run to Cyprus which if you are familiar with this blog i have already posted. In June I tool a trip to Croatia (Hirvatistan for you Turks) with a fellow AuPair. My friend had heard somewhere that Croatia is cheap, has great beaches and is considered one of the few "undiscovered" tourist destinations left in Europe. It was "the" travel destination of 2006 for Americans according to Lonely Planet (I suggest reading Jon Bowermasters article about his trip along the Croatian coast via sea kayak. can be found http://www.adriaticsunshine.com/nationalgeographic.htm)

These are some pictures of my own Croatian Adventure (care of my travel companion, Thanks L. you were great!) Both in the capital Zagreb and on the coast in Dubrovnik

 Beach view of Dubrovnik Castle

 A small bay on the Island of Lokum

 Re: Lokum

 Oh, you know,  just splashing around with Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russel on the Isle of Lokum (look close)

 Sitting outside Dubrovnik Castle. Last evening in Hrvatska

Although our tickets turned out to be a shameful $500!! The beauty and dirt cheap prices in Croatia made this a worthwhile and once in a lifetime experience. Croatia is beautiful, the people are inviting and the cities are so CLEAN.

In July I again found myself with some time off while the family went to Northern Italy. With a far smaller budget and little motivation i impetuously bourded a night bus from Istanbul to Sofia, Bulgaria. At 55Lira one way It was certainly the best value for your money. Spent 2 days exploring Sofia (More then enough time in such a truely boring city) and 2 days in the mountains near Rila. Myself and 2 other backpackers got stranded overnight and ended up taking a room in a Monestary--and adventure in itself!

Me outside....some building

Hostel Mostel (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Hostel-Mostel/Sofia/3725)

Some Building....

St. Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, 2nd largest church in the world...I'm not sure which is #1 though...

In the Mountains near Rila

You'd be looking rough too if you had just spent the night being flogged for your sins by giant, Bulgarian Monks!

4 days in Sofia, Bulgaria is more then any one person needs to experience. But the country and mountains surrounding the admittedly ugly, post Soviet Block cities of Bulgaria are lush, green, and exactly the escape this forest-deprived girl from Great North woods needed.

Doctors doctors Doctors...

She had the perfect teeth that only a cosmetic orthodontist's daughter can ever have. I was in the classiest and most tastefully--kind of--dentists office I've ever seen in my life. I was trying to distract myself from the truly traumatizing before and after photos of Turkish movie stars and commoners with the oil paintings on the wall which were truly fabulous--and were all actually his own work. The tasteful African artifacts, fossils, antiquated Greek Bust and collection of Meerschaum Pipes add to the ambiance of education and lovely personality.

There was only a couple flies in the ointment...

1. Being that there didn't appear to be any Diplomas or Certificates of Continuing Education dating after 1991
2. The Dental Sterilization Machine was on a counter in the Kitchen right next to a sink full of dirty dishes.

*     *     *

That evening, I sat in an embarrassingly squeaky overstuffed leather chair in the reception area of an Orthopedists waiting while my girls and their mother consulted with the bone specialist about some foot...back....bone problems they had--problems invisible to me (someone who has been seeing these childrens nude bodies everyday for 5 months).
    The older girl came out and informed me that she was going to start wearing a back brace at home. But not because she has spinal problems, or chronic pain. She is going to wear what sounds entirely Medieval to me something that will train her to sit with better posture (i don't know why they don't just use scarves to tie her to a chair like they did during the Victorian era.

EXTRA Extra, read all about it!

News update, streaming ticker style:

1. FINALLY FOUND BEYKOZ (I thought that I was living in Beykoz, but I was wrong. The real Beykoz if gorgeous and quaint and by the sea) last week when I accidentally took the Mecidiyekoy bus in the wrong direction and followed the coast of the Bosporus north away from the Bridge. Reaction: BEAUTIFUL!

2. WHEN IT RAINS IT POURS - after making a joke about taking out a personal add in the local paper to find other nannies in the area (as my social circle is nonexistent in Asia), I decided it wasn't such a joke after all and actually put a want ad on the forum of one of the expat websites I am networked in (http://www.expat-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=31825). I have since been discovered by a nanny HERE in my very complex who has an entire group of Nanny friends here in the neighborhood. We all have a date to lie around the pool across from my house tomorrow. And I actually did get one hit on my post on the website from a South African girl who just got here, and will hopefully meet her one afternoon next week.

3. 3 MONTHS IS THE CONFIDENCE AND INDEPENDENCE THRESHOLD - for some reason, as of last week, all reservations are lifted about travelling alone and exploring here. I suddenly feel that I know enough of the city and language to move rather comfortable all by myself. Quel relief!

4. I'M THE NANNINATOR! - My long weeks of confusion and pussy footing around the family, children, maids, and drivers is over. I am now fully stepping into my role of teacher and ADULT with the girls. I AM in charge. I WILL have respect. And NO, you cannot have baklava for dinner!

Free Association

I don't have a purpose for this post aside from my need add a post. So I've decided to just free associate and see what we end up with...

I returned at 11:11 this morning with a confidence I'm not sure I had before. Confidence about the language, confidence about the culture, confidence about my own independence, and most importantly--confidence in my decision to move here.

Something I have gotten a lot of since I moved here from the natives is the question "Why?" Why Turkey? Everyone seems astounded by my impulsive decision to move here--and the fact that I did it not having one Turkish friend in the world. That is something that before I came never struck me as an issue. When needing a change in life, you pack a bag, get on an airplane, and go. I have never thought of myself as a spontaneous person before....but in comparison to the Turks, I suppose I am. There is a purpose to everything they do and a specific series of steps they take in which to do them. Though this logic often alludes my grasp leading me to commit confusing though harmless faux pas, to the Turks it all makes perfect sense. Generally, I don't like to speak in vague generalities like this--I prefer concrete examples to demonstrate my point. But as these ideas are just beginnning to form in my mind--I haven't yet defined which experiences exactly have influenced my thinking.



*     *     *
(Right: Umit, Me, and Patatas french fries. Istiklal cad. Feb.12)

Yesterday was my second day off---how I live for Friday! I sometimes think that my body and mind have begun to run on an internal Cuma (Friday) clock. At all times I can tell you how long its been since I returned home Saturday morning and how long it is until I can leave again next Friday. I am only truely alive when I am outside this house. People how I love thee.
     I am not sure what exactly it is, but everywhere I go out in Istanbul I am an instant crowd favorite. Whether I am dancing, bumbling Turkish words, or ogling feathered headbands in a shop window I am endearing myself in the heart of some Turk. Never have I known such popularity. I think a part of it is my enthusiasm to learn the language and more then culture--to learn the Turkish people's story. The support and praise from my brand new friends as I strive to add to my expanding Turkish vocabulary is a constant reinforcement. I work hard at pronunciation and accent and from the delighted surprise  or every cab driver's and waiter's face, apparently I am doing well.

"Seni Seviyorum"

     I was told "I love you" today by a Turkish woman of indeterminate age. I was also invited to sit in the kitchen over a leisurely cup of tea with said woman and the other maid, both of whom I have been invited to call my "Abla", or big sister; a title which I am coming to learn holds a great amount of affection and deference to the Turkish people. Abla is perhaps my favorite word in the Turkish language...right after guzel (beautiful) and yemek (food/eat) that is.
     Another thing I like and need to practice is the "Turkish Blink" An exaggerated blink of the eye is the Turk's version of the head nod. I means 'yes' but it also seems to mean much more then that. 'I knowledge you'...it's like a double wink, or an extra long hug.

*     *     *

     Standing in the living oda of Yasemin's Babaanne (Paternal Grandmother) two days ago, I was struck dumb with wonder. Laid out before me was the most magnificent view of my life, the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge across a milky turquoise Bosporus in the Foreground with the dogpiled buildings of Istanbul spilling all around it. There was even a cami (meaning Mosque, pronounced jah-mee) or two sprinkled in the mix, all cuddled under the most gently grey overcast sky I have ever seen.
     Yet my eyes were drawn time and again to the equally shocking display of opulence behind me. Shifting my perch on the canary brocade sofa I am met with a clash of gold, brass and real silver. LOTS of real silver. The nutty, chewy taste of my first Turkish Delight still making the acquaintance of my tongue, I fight the urge to be a gawky American and reach for the camera that should be hanging around my neck somewhere between my visor and my fanny pack. And here I thought our house further up the Bosporus was nice. This one has an elevator and a gatehouse complete with security attendant.
     One short elevator ride later I was ushered into the home of yet another Keceli family. There I watched 2 little girls ooh and ahh over a newborn baby, 2 little boys run wild, banging on toy pianos, and realized that for all the glam and all the psycho traffic, there are somethings that transcend language and timezone.
     I also made my second American contact, the Au Pair of the little terrors afore mentioned. I suspect she was even more relieved by the short moments of American conversation than I was.

Sabah Iki (Morning 2)

(This is from an email I sent my Anne (mom) early Thursday morning

 

Gunaydın--Good Morning!

     My cup is full. From the moment I arrived this family (and their many retainers) have made me feel like a celeb. The cook, Döndü, who is an older lady, is tickled pink everytime I use a Turkish word and expresses to me everytime I am in the kitchen how excited she is to learn some english as I learn Turkish at the same time.

     I spent all of yesterday making crafts, reading books, eating flavorful HEALTHY food, playing wii fit (ask justin what that is), watching Wizards of Waverly Place in Turkish (Tell Jordan I even watched an epısode of Hannah Montana for the first time), reading books and playing an itty-bitty guitar.
    But all day I was listening close and ask ask askimg questions. "Bu Teurkçe ne demek?" --What is the Turkish word for this?--The eldest daugter, Selın who is my best teacher and closest friend so far, praises me and marvels at my ability to speak. "You can read Turkish!" sure I can say it, I just don't know what I am saying! I am carrying my little alien notebook everywhere and wishing I had a bigger one. The girls--even down to little Yasemin all love to write their favorite words ın my notebook for me. So I now have all the colors, names for animals like horses and bees, weather, food, etc.

 

Well, I think thats about it right now. They all sleep until 10:30--thats rıght--10:30am now that ıts break so I have about another 2.5 hrs to sleep before Kahvaltı (a delicious breakfast of cheese, olives, tomatoes bread and tea) I think I will quick munch on a few more prunes and what I thınk are drıed fıgs, dates, and cherries; then head back up to my 3rd floor bedroom my kingsized bed, and the best part--the secret balcony I just discovered last night with an AMAZING view of Beykoz! 

 

I love you. I love the family. Tell them so. This is SUCH an adventure!

Gunaydın

I was brushing my teeth with my fınger (because I forgot my toothbrush in Michigan) in my third floor bathroom this mornıng when I heard it. I pulled open the strange mırror\window next to me only to discover a world that had magically been turned to winter over night. And through the stillness echoed the call to Salatu-I-Fajr, or morning prayer. I said to stuffed tıger: "Bangy, I don't think we're in America any more"

Rewind 18hrs< < <
     We exchanged emails and with one quıck hug promised to talk soon. He was a guy from Ney York here for a semester of study abroad, I was a graduate from Michigan suddenly wondering what I was actually here for and what the hell I had just gotten myself into. I think both of us realized that this was the last vestige of Amerıcan companionship we would have for some time. I went to the Visa booth and was so shocked at how easy and fast it was that I think I may have just stood staring at the girl behind the counter for a few minutes after she grabbed my 20 dollars, slapped the stamp in my passport and thanked me. Then I shuffled sheeplike through the "Passport" queue and without so much as a moment of eye contact with the agent I was in the country.
     So much for homeland security.
     Baggage collected I walked out the doors into a scene from a movie. Or the SAG awards. Dırectly outside the airport doors there was a dividing wall holding back a crowd of men (I know, funny metaphor for something I've never had to do in my life). Many of them holding signs. I paused for the pap to snap my picture, posed, molehill of bagage trailing when I spotted my sign: "Vada Horse" with the H and an M hurridly scribbled in.
     Meet Sami.
     Loaded into the "VIP Car" sitting in the front seat next to our driver it takes me only seconds to realize that Turkish driving ettiquite and American driving don't even belong to the same Phyllum. "It's rainıng" both my driver and later the father point out. As if the the total and universal disobeying of traffic laws, traffic lanes, and common sense is to be excused by the weather.
     Through a complex system of exaggerated pantomime, Turklish (self created term indıcating and basterdised mix of turkish and english) and writing in my holographic alien notebook, Sami and I soon dropped into a conversation about American NBA players and how many children were in our perspective families. It took only minutes for this 49yr old man to become my first friend in Turkey...

Washed, dressed ın pajamas and ready for bed hours later (after a whirlwind afternoon of unpacking, helpiıng the girls with homework and sampling Turkish dishes while both girls, the cleaning girl Ayşe and the older woman Döndü looked on and laughed at my apparently sad attempts to learn the Turkish names), I was in my room and gave into a few self indulgent tears.

Some things I learned today:
1. I never want to drive here. Ever.
2. Due to sıze, this city ıs going to be a lot harder to get around then I thought
2.5. Istanbul is beautiful and I love it already
3. The language is going to be a lot more of a barrier then I expected.

My New Theme Song

ISTANBUL (Not Constantiople) 

by: The Four Lads

Istanbul was Constantinople

Now it's Istanbul, not Constantinople

Been a long time gone, Constantinople

Now it's Turkish delight on a moonlit night

Every gal in Constantinople

Lives in Istanbul, not Constantinople

So if you've a date in Constantinople

She'll be waiting in Istanbul

Even old New York was once New Amsterdam

Why they changed it I can't say

People just liked it better that way

So take me back to Constantinople

No, you can't go back to Constantinople

Been a long time gone, Constantinople

Why did Constantinople get the works

That's nobody's business but the Turks

Istanbul!

Istanbul!

<3 Vada

P.S. My entire family is pissed, but this song is now stuck in EVERYONE'S heads. What can I say? It's catchy!

How it all Began...GreatAuPair.com

The first thing you need to know is that i have wanted a Nanny job for over three years. I have been actively looking since January of this year (09). Late last winter I created a profile on AuPair.com hoping to find a position in a French Speaking family in Switzerland...To make a long story short, I got a whole lot of nothing but disinterest and creepy scams. (never never NEVER wire money to ANYONE you don't know!) June to November was a constant rollercoaster of thinking I would be leaving for Switzerland, England or France, only to have it fail at the last minute. Finally I gave up and tired of being unemployed applied for a job in my neighborhood...

Just when it started to look like I was doomed to spend the rest of my life right here in Grand Rapids, Michigan (my own personal Hell) an old roommate suggested GreatAuPair.com. With very little hope, I skeptically created a profile on Tuesday. Wednesday morning I had 7 messages from families all over the EU, one of which was a family in Istanbul Turkey. As soon as I saw their pictures on their family profile I knew they were what I had been looking for. I had found "My Family".

That was last week.

The mother, Sebnem, and I then began to exchange almost daily emails. Today, we were finally able to connect and talk face to face using Skype. I was able to meet both the mother and father, and they were able to meet a few members of my family (including my VERY relieved Mom) through the wonder of the modern webcam.

The date is set. We shall be buying a plane ticket from Chicago, IL to Istanbul, Turkey for February 1, 2010!

Merry Christmas Eve to me and to you too.