Girne (Kyrenia) Cyprus

I went to the Northern coast of Cyprus on my very first Visa run last week. For those of you who don't know (people such as me only one week ago) Cyprus or kibris as it is called in Turkey is a small island nation off the southern coast of Turkey and western coast of Syria. The island has strong Greek and Turkish ties and is just one of the many issues that stands between those two countries. In 1974 the Turkish army invaded Cyprus claiming the northern third of the island as exclusive territory for the Turkish Cypriot minority on the island. Cyprus is divided into Turkish Northern Cyprus and Greek southern Cyprus to this day.

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Having the fanciest solo dinner I've ever eaten to date...between courses right now so I decided it's time to start today's journal...

 An American --> eating Chinese --> speaking Turkish--> in a formerly Greek country --> off the coast of Arabia and Isreal 

     I decided I would just play it cool and see how it went...fail. I feel VERY uncomfortable, unfortunately my strange, paranoid need to appear cool, collected, and dignified demands that I pretend that I don't really want to throw my money on the elegant table cloth and run by staying even LONGER and drinking at least 3/4 a pot of what looks and tastes like hot water (but they tell me is Chinese tea) and only then make my graceful exit. 
    This week was made by a myriad of strange women and foreign men. The 1st was the kind lady with halitosis who sat next to me on the plane...

Day 1
 I landed in Ercan at 9:00am Tuesday morning. (Flight from Istanbul to Ercan lasts about 1:15min) Ercan is a VERY small airport and at that time, on that day, at this time of the year, the arrival terminal was pretty barren...My anxiety spiked as I realized I no plans, no knowledge and nowhere to go for 3 days. This was another great first. My first time going to a country with NO contacts. At least when I came to Turkey I was relatively sure there would be a driver at the airport to pick me up and take me to my new home. I had only gotten my plane ticket to come to Turkey about a day and a half before. Aside from my employer telling me that Girne was the city I should go to...and my own harried googling of cheap hostels in Girne moments before I left for the airport at dawn; I knew nothing. The wonderful Turkish woman with bad breath who (has lived in London for the last 26yrs) sitting next to me on the plane offered me a place to stay with her family...It was tempting but deciding I need to be buck up and be independent I regretfully declined...

The 2nd woman to make my Cyprus trip was the Turkish Japanese Teacher....

     The otobus from the airport to Girne, making a short stop in the town of Lefkosa, costs only 10 lira and is very nice (its a tour type bus with plenty of room for luggage, takes about 1hr). On the bus I sat next to a Japanese woman who has lived in Istanbul for 12 years as a language teacher. I speak very little Turkish and she spoke even less English...but with Tinglish and simple hand motions we were able to communicate very well. When we got off the bus at the city center of Kyrenia (Girne Merkezi) Kamiko took me under her belt and we wandered the streets, ancient cobbles, and dazzling seashore of Girne for 2 whole hours before we finally found an internet cafe so I could look up the address of a hostel. From there we parted ways and I was on my own once again...
   
The Final woman to make my holiday in Cyprus was my "roommate" in the Hostel Le Thu or "Lucy"...

     I managed to make my way to the only youth hostel I could find online (although I later learned that there were several others in the area) called "Cyprus Dorms". The front of the 750yr old three story brick building faces the Old Harbor, the most picturesque and charming quarter of Girne but is accessed through 2 doors on a winding little alley. Cyprus Dorms are quite spartan, but for the location, and only 8euros (16YTL) a night, I am not complaining! Inside the hostel I encountered a menagerie of people...from the Bangladesh expat who runs the place...to a 55yr old Canadian man looking to settle in Cyprus...the American Jew and Turkish Muslim couple who stayed up stairs and my "roommate" a 21yr old Vietnamese girl who is attending Girne American University...we were certainly a unique bunch. But everyone was incredible helpful and friendly. I felt at home and safe in Cyprus Dorms. I can't recommend it enough for that alone. (http://www.cyprusdorms.com/index.html)
     I took a 15 minute otobus ride and managed to make my way to a free beach where I sun bathed for 2 hrs and even got into the Akdeniz (Mediterreanean Sea) for the first time!

Day 2

     The 2nd day of my "Kibris Tatil" (Cyprus Holiday) 21yr old Vietnamese Lucy, 55yr old Canadian Fred, and 22yr old American yours truly toured Kyrenia Castle. My first real castle!!!!!

Which brings me to now...the evening of Day 2...having dinner at "The Dragon" the Chinese restaurant where I tracked down Lucy, who is working. Man 3/4 a pot of tea sure seems like a lot when you are drinking it from a tiny cup.... 

Later that night I went out with Lucy, and 3 of her coworkers from the Chinese Restaurant. Night Clubs in Girne not impressive on a Wednesday night. But just being with Lucy was fun.

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Day 3
    "Excuse me!" I follow him up the slope, jogging to catch up "Excuse me, hey!" he turns "Are you looking for Cyprus Dorms? Come on follow me, I'll show you the way--its kinda hard to find. That's where I am staying!"
      His name was Ahmed, and he is German. I know I know. We spend the day together, first on the top deck of a tour boat we got a bargain on (where I got roasted!) and talked. Then we had a late lunch of Adana Kebab (my favorite--food from the Adana region of Turkey is always deliciously spicy!) and talked and laughed. Being with Ahmed is wonderfully refreshing. He has the Western perspective of a German and quite a unique sense of humor. His English is wonderful, and he is the first guy I have met since I moved here who isn't in awe of my Americaness and falling in love with me (something that gets old fast, let me tell you).
     Ahmed is about 3months into a 9month Middle Eastern/Eastern European backpacking trip. He is an ultimate backpacker. He has lost the exact count but estimates that he has been to 50+ countries already--most recently Northern Iraq. But on this particular day I was the guide. My 2 days experience in the town and grasp of Turkish leading me to lead him around, teach him a few survival phrases, and even interpret the menu for him. Love it. His next stop will be Istanbul for five days next week. We exchanged contact info and plan to meet again when he arrives.

     I walk Lucy to work as we eat popsciles and turn heads: the two pretty Vietnamese and American girls. Tearful hugs goodbye. Only 2 days aquantance and already best friends. Then it was time. My bus was leaving in 20 minutes back for the airport in Ercan. Daniel and Dilek stop me outside the Dorms for a few pictures, and hugs. Ahmed comes along--saying he wants to make sure I leave! At the bus stop, waiting to board, Fred shows up to bid me farewell. I could cry. less then 3 days and I feel like I am leaving real friends.

Did I do much site seeing? No
Did I waste most my time there? Yes
Was I a celeb? Totally
Did I love it? Yes
Will I go back? I sure hope so!