Istanbul in 24

They told me it wasn't possible...I changed their minds.

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     The brisk breeze off the Bosporus quickly dried the sweat on my brow and filled my nose with the pungent fresh scent of fish and salt water. We were sitting on the top deck of the boat that was taking us from Uskudar down the Strait and across to the bustling center Istanbul. My fellow AuPair directs my attention to the far shore pointing out such landmarks as Dolmabace Palace, the Hagia Sofia, Sultanahmet Cami (the famed Blue Mosque, only one in the world to have 5 minarets) and Galata Tower, all visible from our bench on the ferry. And so the tour begins.
   

     The Spice Bazaar, Topkapi Palace gardens and mosques of Sultanahmet fade into mere memory as my eyes are soon assaulted by the sensory overload that is the Grand bazaar. My darting gaze is torn between the windows of sparkling jewelry, elaborate lamps, tinkling belly dancer costumes, and decadently patterned fabrics. An equal competitor for my attention is the beautifully painted vaults in the ceilings that lead down the miles of corridors which constitute the indoor bizarre. As if taking in this ancient and world renowned site aren't challenging enough, I have the added obstacle of avoiding eye contact with the hundreds of men who man the many shops and try to rebuff their decidedly aggressive sales tactics.
     Brittany, my fellow American AuPair and I eventually meet up with her Turkish friend and stop at a cafe in the center of the bizarre for cold drinks and Turkish Delight. (If you are ever offered fresh Mint Lemonade I highly suggest you accept!)...

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     Beyoglu, Taksim, Istiklal Caddesi. The street that hosts over 1,000,000 pedestrians everyday. As Afternoon turns to dusk the net of Christmas lights which run the length of Istiklal illuminate the shoppers, street vendors and the store fronts which run the gamut from High end designer to literal hole-in-the-ground grottoes which have mountains of cheap jeans and defective clothing for just 5 lira. After purchasing two much needed pairs of jeans and one much desired top, my personal tour guides and I descend upon a salon for a wash and a blow (they do at least, I'm not sure I will ever be able to justify such a frivolity). An hour later we lift our beauty siege and only one stop later for a quick change and we are ready to embrace the night. Our party of 4 becomes a party of 6 and I am soon sitting on a giant cushion, at a little table in a stifling alcove in a Turkish restaurant whose ceiling is so low that even I--at a mere 60`inches tall--cannot stand erect.
      At the first of a series of bars we patron throughout the night our party once again multiplies. The feeling of camaraderie I experience with these young Turks is something I haven't enjoyed since graduation last June. One more stop (and an unfortunate lap full of Efes later) And I am experimenting with Turkish dancing--much to the delight of mine hosts. There is only one thing for it: time to head to a dance club. (Where I proceed to make what I am sure is a spectacle of myself dancing away, but the natives seemed to approve and even marvel at my moves)
     5:00am, not sure how it happened I am sitting at a table in one of the establishments we had visited earlier in the evening long after it has closed. On a microphone a Turkmenistan girl sings a hauntingly complex melody completely a Capella. Though it has taken a while to learn to enjoy the unique sound of Turkish music, for some reason after dancing to it I have a greater appreciation for the genre. Leaning my head heavily on my hand, my American friend and I languish in the corner, appalled yet strangely in awe of the Turks' ability to continue the party. One thing is to be said for them:  Turkish people really know how to play.

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Messy haired and bleary eyed, slightly bus sick I read the chartreuse sign as we pass over the Fatih Sultan Mehmet Bridge on our way home mid Saturday morning: "Welcome to Asia" and realize just how lucky I am. I am young, I am moderately healthy, I have friends, and a job, and I am living in the only city on earth that spreads across the border of two continents.