Homeward Bound

Well. My friends. This has been an indescribable 7 months and 19 days. Two weeks ago Monday I moved out of "my" home in Beykoz and moved to a friends apartment in Taksim where I lived out of a suitcase for over a week. One week later I received the devastating news that I job I have been expecting to being in Italy was not available. So I looked into making a quick Visa run and finding some temporary post in the City at least until Christmas. But as of July 14th Turkey past a law prohibiting the renewal of Multiple Entry Tourist Visas. Now expats such as myself must leave the country for 90 days before we can get another Visa. That means 90 days in 90 days out (I'll be interested to see how this effects the educational system of the Country as most English Teachers seem to me to be Visa Runners such as myself). Faced with unemployment and a rapidly expiring Visa. I made the only practical decision I had left to me, bought a plane ticket and returned home to America.

On to my next big adventure?

While I will keep this blog open and suspect that from time to time I will read or remember something that I may post here--from now on I will be returning to my US blog. If you have enjoyed my anecdotes or incites please join me there and be apart of my search to discover the deeply American soul it too moving to the Great Portal of the East to discover I had.


http://vadamorse.blogspot.com/

Görüşürüz, Arkadaşlarim

Extra-National Adventures: Croatia and Bulgaria

I get a small knot in the pit of my stomach every night as I vainly try to fall asleep. On the list of worrisome subjects keeping me from rest is the fact that I have been so inattentive to my blog--and yet have so much to share. Impressions and memories that are already starting to fade and that if I dont record them forever will be a great waste.

I have taken several small trips since I came to Turkey--the first was my Visa run to Cyprus which if you are familiar with this blog i have already posted. In June I tool a trip to Croatia (Hirvatistan for you Turks) with a fellow AuPair. My friend had heard somewhere that Croatia is cheap, has great beaches and is considered one of the few "undiscovered" tourist destinations left in Europe. It was "the" travel destination of 2006 for Americans according to Lonely Planet (I suggest reading Jon Bowermasters article about his trip along the Croatian coast via sea kayak. can be found http://www.adriaticsunshine.com/nationalgeographic.htm)

These are some pictures of my own Croatian Adventure (care of my travel companion, Thanks L. you were great!) Both in the capital Zagreb and on the coast in Dubrovnik

 Beach view of Dubrovnik Castle

 A small bay on the Island of Lokum

 Re: Lokum

 Oh, you know,  just splashing around with Goldie Hawn and Kurt Russel on the Isle of Lokum (look close)

 Sitting outside Dubrovnik Castle. Last evening in Hrvatska

Although our tickets turned out to be a shameful $500!! The beauty and dirt cheap prices in Croatia made this a worthwhile and once in a lifetime experience. Croatia is beautiful, the people are inviting and the cities are so CLEAN.

In July I again found myself with some time off while the family went to Northern Italy. With a far smaller budget and little motivation i impetuously bourded a night bus from Istanbul to Sofia, Bulgaria. At 55Lira one way It was certainly the best value for your money. Spent 2 days exploring Sofia (More then enough time in such a truely boring city) and 2 days in the mountains near Rila. Myself and 2 other backpackers got stranded overnight and ended up taking a room in a Monestary--and adventure in itself!

Me outside....some building

Hostel Mostel (http://www.hostelworld.com/hosteldetails.php/Hostel-Mostel/Sofia/3725)

Some Building....

St. Aleksander Nevski Cathedral, 2nd largest church in the world...I'm not sure which is #1 though...

In the Mountains near Rila

You'd be looking rough too if you had just spent the night being flogged for your sins by giant, Bulgarian Monks!

4 days in Sofia, Bulgaria is more then any one person needs to experience. But the country and mountains surrounding the admittedly ugly, post Soviet Block cities of Bulgaria are lush, green, and exactly the escape this forest-deprived girl from Great North woods needed.

Boat Trip--Mediterreanean Sea and the Ege Coast

Me and Selin, Day 1

The Beautiful coast off Bodrum

The cove where we anchored for the first 2 nights

Selin and Me: Straw hat Divas

Seconds later I was nursing a sore nose from the bucket tied to the end of that rope...

Ismail Kaptan, and his assistant, Arcan

The perfect end to the perfect post.

Doctors doctors Doctors...

She had the perfect teeth that only a cosmetic orthodontist's daughter can ever have. I was in the classiest and most tastefully--kind of--dentists office I've ever seen in my life. I was trying to distract myself from the truly traumatizing before and after photos of Turkish movie stars and commoners with the oil paintings on the wall which were truly fabulous--and were all actually his own work. The tasteful African artifacts, fossils, antiquated Greek Bust and collection of Meerschaum Pipes add to the ambiance of education and lovely personality.

There was only a couple flies in the ointment...

1. Being that there didn't appear to be any Diplomas or Certificates of Continuing Education dating after 1991
2. The Dental Sterilization Machine was on a counter in the Kitchen right next to a sink full of dirty dishes.

*     *     *

That evening, I sat in an embarrassingly squeaky overstuffed leather chair in the reception area of an Orthopedists waiting while my girls and their mother consulted with the bone specialist about some foot...back....bone problems they had--problems invisible to me (someone who has been seeing these childrens nude bodies everyday for 5 months).
    The older girl came out and informed me that she was going to start wearing a back brace at home. But not because she has spinal problems, or chronic pain. She is going to wear what sounds entirely Medieval to me something that will train her to sit with better posture (i don't know why they don't just use scarves to tie her to a chair like they did during the Victorian era.

Rainy Days = Jack Johnson Kind of Days

Loved Ones,

      You probably haven't heard a peep....but in case the Istanbul weather has happened to make any American headlines: I am fine.
     Its been raining here for days but I was surprised yesterday when part way through the afternoon the girls were delivered home by the school bus and that school was also canceled for today. Apparently there were fears the the city would flood which i thought foolish and paranoid.
      I was wrong. Watching the news tonight it is obvious that parts---some of them SURPRISINGLY close to me flooded this afternoon. I think a few people even died. But me and mine have been untouched by the weather other then the mild irritation that is experienced by those trapped inside by inclement weather when they would rather be out of doors. My only real fear now, petty as it is, is that the weather may persist and the girls may be kept home from school again tomorrow!

                              Love,
                                            Me

P.S. Its a Jack Johnson kind of day <3 

Topkapi and Israelis

I went to Topkapi Palace with a fellow AuPair and American, Kristen at the end of April and was surprisingly unimpressed. For the size and beauty of the place, it was amazingly lacking in Historical Interest....But it does have the world largest diamond on display...guess that's something it has going for it....Also on display is the the actual Staff of Moses (looked surprisingly like plastic to me) the arm, heart, and Head of John the Beloved...and at least 6 of the Prophet Muhammad's beards. I dont mean to be a critic but...really?

 

 

But in the End, it was the height of Tulip Season, and a beautiful day with a Beautiful Friend

Balik Kofte

About 1 week ago we were eating fish (of which I am not a fan). As I complained to the 11yr old she asked me: "but have you ever had Balik kofte?" Fish meatballs?!?!? Seeing my face of disgust at even the thought of fish being smashed into an attempted edible spheres, she told me to just wait, its SOOO good.

Tuesday of this week the girls and I get home late and sit down to the customary Tuesday dinner of patates kofte, or french fries and meatballs. One bite in and I realize this is the best kofte I've had yet. My somewhat talented palette begins to distinguish the red pepper and other spices used to flavor these meatballs, giving them a just slightly spicy and red tinge. The 11yr old then then turns to me and says: "This is Balik Kofte.See, isnt it good?!" Disbeleiving, I turn to the older maid who nods her confirmation. Despite all my best salivatory, optic, and olfactory senses I am forced to believe her and gladly heap my plate with seconds--its fish afterall, that means its healthy!...

This morning at breakfast, I happen to mention to the live in maid that we had fish kofte for dinner this week and I loved it. With only the slightest of smiles she tells me: "No fish kofte. Sığır" (beef) Apparently when they were little girls and they refused to eat beef, the maids would tell the older girl who loves fish that it was fish, not beef. And tell the younger girl who loves chicken that it was chicken, not beef. "Before, no kofte, wahh wahh. Ok, fish, chicken. Very very love. Four year, no problem." They have kept this secret pact and served ground beef to the children for 4 years with completely straight faces.

And that my friends, is why Ayse is my official Quick Thinker of the Week, and my personal hero.

My Country 'Tis of Thee

So....I was SUPPOSED to be starting a new job next week....but I  renegotiated some terms with my current family and will be staying with them for the summer. I am very happy as I am very attached--especially to the older girl.

I have become surprisingly homesick for Americana. Barbeques and Country Music. Baseball and TV that is entirely in English....American men. Memorial Day came and went as little more then a blurp on my homesick radar. I fear that July 4th will be a surprisingly difficult day for me.










I have been a bit lax with my blog and I apologize. I have been fortunate enough to connect with other nannies--several of which were right here inside my complex the whole time! I am planning a trip to Croatia and Montenegro next with with one of the girls...so hopefully I will have an adventure to share with you all sometime late next week.


These are some images of places I pass often on my days in "Europe"...

The Ortakoy Mosque. Beautiful quaint but active area of the city.

And the walk between Ortakoy and Besiktas where one passes Galata Sarayi Univeristy, Yildiz Park, and Dolmabache Palace...

EXTRA Extra, read all about it!

News update, streaming ticker style:

1. FINALLY FOUND BEYKOZ (I thought that I was living in Beykoz, but I was wrong. The real Beykoz if gorgeous and quaint and by the sea) last week when I accidentally took the Mecidiyekoy bus in the wrong direction and followed the coast of the Bosporus north away from the Bridge. Reaction: BEAUTIFUL!

2. WHEN IT RAINS IT POURS - after making a joke about taking out a personal add in the local paper to find other nannies in the area (as my social circle is nonexistent in Asia), I decided it wasn't such a joke after all and actually put a want ad on the forum of one of the expat websites I am networked in (http://www.expat-blog.com/forum/viewtopic.php?id=31825). I have since been discovered by a nanny HERE in my very complex who has an entire group of Nanny friends here in the neighborhood. We all have a date to lie around the pool across from my house tomorrow. And I actually did get one hit on my post on the website from a South African girl who just got here, and will hopefully meet her one afternoon next week.

3. 3 MONTHS IS THE CONFIDENCE AND INDEPENDENCE THRESHOLD - for some reason, as of last week, all reservations are lifted about travelling alone and exploring here. I suddenly feel that I know enough of the city and language to move rather comfortable all by myself. Quel relief!

4. I'M THE NANNINATOR! - My long weeks of confusion and pussy footing around the family, children, maids, and drivers is over. I am now fully stepping into my role of teacher and ADULT with the girls. I AM in charge. I WILL have respect. And NO, you cannot have baklava for dinner!

Bayramınız Kutlu Olsun!

Last Saturday was the Turkish workers holiday known as Labour and Solidarity Day

Here are some facts I got from a website called TimeAndDate.com:

"Labor and Solidarity Day in Turkey is an occasion for some people to demand better conditions for skilled laborers and union workers..Labor and Solidarity Day, which falls on May 1 each year, is one of the most controversial holidays in Turkey.
     Some people in Turkey participate in demonstrations on Labor and Solidarity Day. They may demand better conditions for skilled laborers and union workers, or protest the government's policies. If the demonstrators gather in unsanctioned places, the police may try to disperse the crowd.
People who do not participate in political demonstrations try to avoid public gatherings on May 1 because demonstrations sometimes end in violence. Many people use the day off to have a picnic and spend time with friends and relatives.
     Labor and Solidarity Day, observed on May 1, is an official holiday in Turkey. Administration buildings, schools and post offices are usually closed on this day. However, many businesses remain open. Public transport routes may vary in the event of street protests. Visitors should consider avoiding the demonstrations, as they may end up in violence.

May 1 became an official holiday, called “Workers' Day” (İşçi Bayramı), in Turkey in 1923. The event was marked by mass protests and occasional violence. This led the Turkish authorities to ban the participation in the May 1 demonstrations in 1924. The protests continued and the government banned the holiday in 1925. May 1 returned as the “Spring and Flowers Day” (Bahar ve Çiçek Bayramı) in 1935. It was a peaceful day until 1976, when workers organized their first May 1 demonstration in many years. Even bigger demonstrations followed in 1977, and someone opened fire in the 500,000-strong crowd in the Taksim Square in Istanbul. Thirty-four people died in the resulting stampede and more than 100 people were injured.

The Turkish authorities have since banned the May 1 demonstrations at the Taksim Square. In 1981, the government banned the holiday for the second time. May 1 returned as an official holiday under the name of “Labor and Solidarity Day” in 2009

*    *    *
8:15am Saturday morning Brittany and I left her apartment on Babil Sokak off and walked out of the alley onto the side walk to find a deserted Cumhurriyet Cd. in Taksim. We had been warned that today was a Bayram holiday and the metro might be closed, but still this was almost eerie. There was nothing. No buses. No delivery trucks. No cabs zipping and swerving around each other. There wasn't even anyone walking the random dog. The only people who were out were the people in business suits obviously on their way to the office, and police officers. Tons of Police officers.
     We approached the first officers we encountered, and luckily between the 5 of them there was enough English to tell us what we wanted to know: There was no Metro in Taksim that day. So Brittany had a 25minute walk in one direction to catch a taksi to Sultanahmet, and I had a 4km stroll all the way to the bustop at Mecidiyekoy: aka along the entire parade route of the Labor and Solidarity Day demonstrations. (good thing that at the time I was only mildly aware of the torrid and violent past of the holiday) Luckily it was early enough in the day, that demonstrators were just beginning to collect and organize themselves into the various parties holding flags or wearing colors that represent the party or union for which they were advocating. Aside from the militaristic music being played everywhere, the empassioned chants through megaphones and the hundreds of police in riot gear it was a safe enough if crowded walk as I pushed and wove my way upstream to Mecidiyekoy. It took me just under an hour to walk the 4km, I got to my bus with very little trouble, and aside from a sore knee, arrived safely home in Beykoz 4 whole minutes before my 10am "curfew"

 (These photos are all off past May 1 "celebrations" in and around the Taksim area--good thing I didn't see these till later)


                                                  Bayramınız Kutlu Olsun Everyone!